cubo 12

Hi,

I've used Cubo 12's with extensions myself, personally I like extensions that are at least the same depth as the Cubo itself (in this case roughly 50 cm) or more. They extend the usable lower limit a bit (about 5 Hz), mostly they give a very decent increased output between 50- 80 Hz. To really drop a lot lower, the part before the extension needs to be designed the right way, which is not typically what you will find in any cabinet that's designed to do it all on it's own. Therefore I would suggest Cubo 12 Mod which drops at least 5 Hz lower than Cubo 12 in exchange for less output in the 50 - 80 Hz region, together with an extension it will definitely hit your lower target, plus the extension will make up for any loss in the 50 - 80 Hz region.

However for trance you might find Cubo 12 (with or without extension) already going low enough, Cubo 12 Mod with extensions (and Cubo 15) definitely will.

Best regards Cubo

Thank you very much for the quick and detailed reply to my question.Much appreciated.

I have seen the cubo 12 mod discussed in various places, but I cannot find
plans for them, are they hosted on this site? Or if not, is there some way I
could get hold of a copy of them?

Send me an e-mail at questionsaboutcubo at gmail dot com and I'll send the plans from there.

Message sent.  Thanks very much!

hi!

thanks so much for the cubo plans!

i used them to build my first ever bin

and have been learning to use onshape - free browser-based CAD





i don't know where this will site between appreciated and totally not allowed to share, but it's here, let me know if i should remove....
cad.onshape.com/documents/8bfafd16518c7d...3236a89d40bd42cd3ec9

notes:
the model/cutlist assumes 15mm ply, and 3mm blade kerf, cut from a single sheet of 8*4 (actually it's 1800 x 1222)
if you go to "cubo 12 (layout)" tab, and double click "auto layout 1" on the left, you can adjust to match your job (spacing = kerf)

i'm pretty new to the software and not totally sure what will happen to the drawing if you ammend the autolayout, so make sure it's right before you cut anything!

i've backed the file up so it's not catastrophic if you break it but please let me know if you're making changes so i can keep an eye, and if anyone sees any problems / mistakes please let me know!

Hi,

I suppose a free CAD program is always welcome, I will at least try it.

• I find the labeling in the cut sheet a bit hard to get used to, does it address that the baffle is cut under a 15 degree angle?
• I think you have forgotten the large bracing in this plan, the one labelled 'B' in the original plan
• For the kind of drivers I've been using 285.75 mm is a bit large of a diameter for a driver cut out, nothing disastrous though

Anyway great effort and thanks for that.

Best regards Cubo

Thanks for replying!

You are correct of course - I have missed the big brace!

I actually made the real bin first and then the model, to be part of a larger model of the bicycle trailer system that my cubo is destined for... (will share later in case any one interested), so my model and particularly cutsheet have not been 'idiot tested' by actually being built from a print...

Will reduce driver aperture and add brace "b", also annotate the angled cuts!

Always interested in pictures or videos of setups (keeps the vibe going). I've registered an account in hopes of finally learning CAD.

Best regards Cubo

Hi

I could do with some help, ive got ply and building the case is pretty straight forawrd. I ai to build a small portable set up with a boominator micro and a cubo 12. Im ok with building the battery too, although im not sure if i will make a 12 or 24v battery. most likely 12v as its cheaper. I was thinking about a dedicated battery and ampfor the sub at 25ah and around 100w amp. Thought i was set on the driver and amp but i thought wrong and now im lost.

I have a fane 12300 and was l expecting to get a simple amp board from wondom. But ive hit a knowledge gap, more like a chasm.

The fane 12300 is 8ohm and most of the amps are 4, 3, or even 2ohm. Is there a good amp driver mix i can use,

thanks

Amps are rated for a minimum impedance, which is typically where they deliver most power. So an amplifier that delivers 100 W into 2 Ohm, will deliver less at 4 Ohm and even less power at 8 Ohm. Many amp modules do not have an integrated voltage booster, so the voltage of the battery limits the power it can give, 12 V will give you something like 18 Watt at 8 Ohm, 36 W @ 4 Ohm, 72 W @ 2 Ohm, etc. (anything stated more is usually a lie of some sort). 24 V = 72 W into 8 Ohm, etc.

So I would definitely go for 24 V for the sub amp, but make sure that the maximum voltage of the battery is not more than the maximum voltage of the amplifier. Batteries deliver a voltage range and are usually loaded with a higher voltage than their nominal voltage. A typical 12 V lead acid battery is loaded up to 13.5 V and then over time the voltage drops as the battery delivers it's power, if this voltage drops to low it can permanently damage the battery as well.. Similar things go for Li-ion batteries, although different voltages apply.