1x12 d-r horn

Whoops, I forgot to add that that what I said really applied to bass cabs[img]smileys/smiley9.gif[/img].

You're right, anyway. Neo mids are much easier on everyone's back.

Edited by: Deadbeat

Deadbeat wrote: Whoops, I forgot to add that that what I said really applied to bass cabs [img]smileys/smiley9.gif[/img].You're right, anyway. Neo mids are much easier on everyone's back.

I have never heard of a single case where someone has destroyed a Neo driver through anything other than overpowering/operator error.

In the same way that overpowering kills ferrite drivers, its going to do the same for Neos, the power handling of Neos is purposefully lower to reflect their slight increased sensitivity to heat.

The benefit being that because of their light weight you could fit 2x Neo for the weight of 1x which gives you up to 6dB more output.

StuEdited by: Strapping Young Stu

simonr wrote: @ Tekasis, just checked your post.
H: 370mm
L: 688mm
W: front 564mm
W: rear 388mm

Cheers mate.

simonr wrote: Tried both 1225 and 1225e versions.
Better, flatter response from the e version.
More punch on snare etc. More power handling, and sounds good even when pushing it. The neoversions aren't in production at the moment, so I've been told.
They look good but I think that theferrite versions have the edge, even though they're heavier. Price will be proportionately more as well!.
Pass on which is theoretically better for horn loading, I may be wrong, but I think that would be more relevant in lower frequency applications.

Deadbeat wrote: TF1225e is vented for increased power handling. I've used them in midrange horns and reflex cabs.

Thanks for them replies gents.

I didn't realize that there was a Dr. Decible on the Celestion website, who I mailed, & they've confirmed that the Neo versions are now available in the UK, & the Doc also explained what the 'e' stands for on the 1225 & 1525 series drivers. See reply below...

drdecibel <drdecibel@celestion.com> wrote:
<BLOCKquote style="BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0cm; BORDER-TOP: medium none; MARGIN-TOP: 5pt; PADDING-LEFT: 4pt; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0cm; MARGIN-LEFT: 3.75pt; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 1.5pt solid; PADDING-TOP: 0cm; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">

The TF and TN ranges are designed for reflex enclosures and the parameters wouldn’t really be suited tohorn loadedenclosures.
Speakers for horn loaded cabinets tend to have higher motor forces (Bl) and stiffer cones to deal with the high pressure in the cabs.
Generally a speaker designed for horn loaded cabs tend to sound very bass light in a reflex cab.

The TN’s are available in the UK.

The E stands for edgewound coil which gives the speaker greater motor strength. The e models would be most suited to a horn loaded application.

Regards

The Doctor</BLOCKquote>

I'm not going to get into the technical sims, because that is not my way, but here's something to consider. Instead of cutting a square or rectangular hole in the baffle, why not cut a round one and then then use the shape as a guide to dress filler away from the throat. Keeping it round gives you complete even loading on the cone.

Thanks Tony, a very valid point. I have made a few horns a long time ago using exactly this method, but I wanted to try and avoid the extra labour, and see if the design would work with less time spent on tedious filling and sanding. If the driver proves to be able to withstand the abuse that it is currentlybeing subjected to, I will be pleasantly surprised!.
Another method using an octagonal throat and triangular fillets epoxied into the 45 degree edges is the next stage of this current design, should the driver show thesigns of fatigue.
I think I should add that what I am attempting to achieve with thedesigns that I have put forward so far, is the best possible effective sound system, for the smallest investment of time and money. It is aimed at theentry level, fora small group of people that wish to put arig together, and actually want to buildit themselves, and can't affordto buywhat is consideredto be the best. The designs are aimed at the garage workshop, and the most basic of power tools and user aptitude. I am not trying to say thatthese arebetter than any other, just that if you can make significant savings and still get equal to, or very close to, the standards expected, then more people will be encouraged to do the same.Meaning build and design their own!. After all, the fun is making something for yourself that really does sound good.

The octagonal throat is a good compromise. DDS use it on their short horns and Martin use one on their Blackine H3, albeit with a phase ball and a round throat with the very same triangular bits making the transition from mouth to throat smoother.

simonr wrote: <div>
</div>
<div>I think I should add that what I am attempting to achieve with thedesigns that I have put forward so far, is the best possible effective sound system, for the smallest investment of time and money. It is aimed at theentry level, fora small group of people that wish to put arig together, and actually want to buildit themselves, and can't affordto buywhat is consideredto be the best. The designs are aimed at the garage workshop, and the most basic of power tools and user aptitude.
</div>

fairplay mate, thats a good idea. but each side of the horn flare looks like its made of 3 pieces. is it? cant see well in picture. i reckon thats more of a mission than if it were one piece, like the tda audio MT122.

I have 28 of that 1225e drivers. 24 of them reside now in my line array boxes.
I have 4 doing nothing and was thinking of building 4 MT112 or 2 MT122 (TDA way) to give them a try.
How low would they go in MT122? 150? And in configuration of 3 MT122 in one stack can they reach 120-130Hz?
Has anyone ever tried 3 MT122 in one stack? How loud it can be?